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16.09.2005, 12:35

NEWS 32 - more information to PAMIR - Photos

Dear friends, especially climbing freaks,

Now I got the photos from our trip to Pamir and I want to put some photos here, also if our tour had been some weeks ago. Angie had those photos and we transferred now here in Dushanbe.

You know I wrote, that we rescued one American at Pik Lenin (7134m). After the mountain he went directly to Osh and then further to Australia to his mother. We all are happy that he didn't break anything and he is walking again and feeling well. He has some frostbites, but nothing very serious. I wrote a report about all the events at Pik Lenin but just in German, because I would like to inform some people about what exactly happened (I can send it to you if you want).

But maybe also some more information in English:
During the rescue operation we tried to get a helicopter but without success. That was very depressing, because the discussion was especially about money. I mean we were talking about the life of one young man and the others about money. You know Jalal fell down 1000m and got into an avalanche. We did not know whether he got inner injuries or not.
The commercialization at Peak Lenin was another very disappointing point. Our team and friends are not used to climb in such atmosphere. A lot of people believe in the argumentation that Lenin is one of the easiest 7000m peaks. Maybe he is, but it still is 7000m. In the time we stayed at the mountains 2 people died. One Iranian guy died in Camp 3 (6000m) on high altitude sickness (lungs). In my opinion that was very stupid, because he stayed 3 days up there and nobody helped him... I mean once in South America I had this kind of altitude sickness and you can hear the lungs from about 50m away. A Polish guy fell down at the steep step in 6600m and died. We saw also him in a plastic bag. I've never met such situations in the mountains before.
We met some people very, very tired (sometimes crying) and totally without power (and they did not even carry their own back bags) also in lower altitudes. Sometimes, I thought they should do walking in the city park with help...It is very hard of me to say it in this way I know. But it is dangerous up there also for good trained people.

During the rescue of Jalal there were a lot of other people in the camp and they made their normal way... Otherwise, I also met a lot of nice people and I am very happy about this!!

But knowing the fact, that some people pay about 2500-3000EURO or even more to get to the summit, I am really angry about that not even a barrow (that thing to carry persons) exists. I doubt, that there are other rescue devices such as pressure chambers and so on. The doctor of one company does not even go up to the mountains. He is just sitting in the Base Camp...
I mean that the clients should complain about this. I mean there are a discothek every night and a lot of generators in Camp 1 but not the basic rescue devices...
Hopefully, European companies also know that their Russians / Kyrgyz partners are used to put all garbage into the crevasses. You can not believe how it looks up there. In Camp 2 it stinks like hell!!! In the moment the paying tourists (even not able to carry their own back bags) are going down and home, they are (lets say it a very hard way) like pigs. The toilet paper is flying like nice flowers over the glacier...

Why am I writing all this stuff?

I just want to warn some people about the situation here at Pik Lenin. On the one hand, that is an ecological disaster and on the other hand also a human disaster. I am very angry that our so special climbing and mountaineering sport is practiced in the worst way. I enjoy to climb with friends and to meet friends and to enjoy the beautiful mountains with other people in a friendly way. I do not want to discuss all the time about money...

Besides this:

I mean, what is a summit worth if you can not even carry your own food by yourself. Of course, there are different opinions about the way of climbing, but at least we should care about the life of all other persons and the nature around. Why were so selfish people at the mountain thinking of money all the time? Also during the rescue most of the time we talked about money...

That were my personal impressions up there and for sure everybody has a different view.
After all, I enjoyed the time at Lenin. I learnt a lot and also met very, very nice and helpful people. I am happy about this.

Let's go climbing and enjoy the life. Climbing is freedom!


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